The End All Discussion On Ice Fishing Sonar / Flashers

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Horsager's picture
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Tim Sandstrom Said:

 On Sakakawea you get very limited time in the morning and evening to make that work so every little bit of time counts. 

And you're wasting that time running on the ice instead of having your jig in the water?

I don't believe you.  I think you're looking for a perfectly round hole, in addition, that hole had better NOT have any snags or sharp spots that could cut your line if you catch a frisky fish.

God help the fish if you ever stop thinkin' and start fishin'.

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espringers,

I saw some of those things you mentioned and get that but to me, I want to see what the fish is doing versus what it did.

As I said before, you knwo when a fish leaves or enteres the cone with a flasher.  Just like you said, you look at the bottom of the graph to see if a fish is hugging bottom and decipher by the color change.  A flasher starts to flicker and do all sort of things.  As I call it, "fish bubbling."  I get excited when I see fish bubbling!  If I was watching that graph I'd already have a bite before I knew a fish was there.  I guess that is the point as that happened this past weekend.  I didn't see the fish until I was reeling it up.  I guess with the graph I can watch myself reel fish up!  Ha ha.

But then I switched my displays so I had both the graph and the vertical zoom (showdown style).  My screen looked exactly like that of the screen shot I put above.

As for text, that is where Lowrance wins.  I cannot adjust text size on any of the "battery meters" or side depth readings.  Normally not a big deal because like you, I know I'm fishing for bottom feeders and I don't do a lot of panfish or perch fishing.


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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the video of the 67, 68 above shows what i am talking about.  the far right hand side of the graph has a vertical black line.  to the right of that black line is the real time sonar data... to the left of that black line is the recording of said data.  i call the part to the right of the line an amplitude bar (i may be misusing this term... it might apply to something entirely different. but, i remember that term and for some reason its stuck in my head that that is what it is).  essentially that is your vertical flasher akin to what i think you are referring to when you speak of when you mention the "showdown" theme.  in that particular unit, it is pretty small and you need the sensitivity turned a bit more to show the colors that you see in the recording to the left.  but, on my bigger lowrances and i think on marcums, that amplitude bar is wider and the color and response mimicks what you see in the recording. 

in response to your response about the slush in the hole... i would just scrap the arm.  as long as you have it wo it ain't putting pressure on the connection between the unit and the ducer cord, i can't imagine it would be a problem.  my origina 68 came with an arm.  i used it one day and then threw it away... literally.  don't bother with a float either.  i'd much rather have my ducer cord tucked nice and tight agains the side of the hole with the ducer right below the ice.  keeps everything out of the way and insures its parallel to the bottom of the ice. 

regarding a carrying case...i ain't sure what marcum uses.  but, what is the difference between theirs and the vex carrying case or the lowrance soft cases?  my current lowrance is actually mounted on an old vex case without a soft cover.  but, as far as convenience, my old soft case on my 522 was just as convient.  i had the zip up cover unzipped all the time and tucked underneath the carrying handle.  just drop the ducer in the hole to fish... pick it up and stick it inside when moving on to the next hole.  what is slipping off of what?

i sure wish i was in your area... i'd try help you get it dialed in.  but, to be honest... even tho it was a graph, i didn't like my uncles marcum nearly as much as my older lowrance.  i'd take a color 300 or 500 series lowrance over a new marcum any day of the week... especially for the cost of those darn things.  i suspect i would say the same thing about the elite series lowrances... if history holds true, i would rather have one of them than a marcum.  in fact, if i didn't already have an hds unit for my boat to use on the ice, i think i would be buying an elite for the ice or a used 300 or 500 series lowrance.  my 522 had one feature my hds doesn't that i really miss. 

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Horsager Said:
 

Tim Sandstrom Said:

 On Sakakawea you get very limited time in the morning and evening to make that work so every little bit of time counts. 

And you're wasting that time running on the ice instead of having your jig in the water?

I don't believe you.  I think you're looking for a perfectly round hole, in addition, that hole had better NOT have any snags or sharp spots that could cut your line if you catch a frisky fish.

God help the fish if you ever stop thinkin' and start fishin'.

Ha ha.  I guess I will have to post photos of our weekend's adventures...

But in seriousness, I do run on the ice!  I am sort of a nut.  I run to the tip-ups.  If I miss a fish or get a fish on the ice with the jig rod I run to put the fish in a cooler (I do not like cleaning frozen fish) and get a new minnow.  Sometimes I break the rules and throw fish at the hole if I still have my minnow.

What I do need to do is pre-cut minnows so I have a little side pocket stash of them.  Then I wouldn't have to leave the hole to go get minnows out of the minnow bucket.  I think next time out I am going to do that.  Just hate it when they freeze because when you put a hook in you sort of gash a bigger hole in the minnow head and it gets easier to jig them loose.  When stabbed fresh the minnow stays on better.  I guess a little plano box or some other little case would work good inside my hoodie or when it is real cold inside my big coat.  That way they stay unfrozen.


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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I fished outside for like 20 minutes this weekend and then decided that the inside of Ahab's ice lodge was a more comfortable alternative lol cant beat fishing in sweatpants

 

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Tim Sandstrom Said:

Horsager Said:
 We haven't even gotten to the part where Timmer is hole-hopping not to catch more fish, but, because he's looking for the roundest hole with the straightest cut through the ice column, it doesn't really matter if there's fish in that hole, as long as it's straight and perfectly round.

Heck no, I use a chipper.  I want that buggar to cut even if I drill through sand.  Unlike the dang serrated curved blades!  I do get a little upset if a hole is at a 20 degree angle because someone had to lean on their auger to drill a hole.

I run from hole to hole to catch fish.  On Sakakawea you get very limited time in the morning and evening to make that work so every little bit of time counts.  Not to mention, comfort while doing it!  As in defeinding guy's comments on why even kick the ice slush.                    Just lay the cord over and fish.

No reason you couldnt do that with the Marcum...

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I jig at the back of the boat and use my HDS 10 any time I can when the conditions are right on soft water.  I use it just as you would for ice fishing.  That being said, I will agree with Tim on that I see it being no better than a flasher.  In fact, I actually prefer a flasher over a graph because it is slightly more immediate and when I see the flicker of fins moving up, it almost always means to brace for a strike.  Just my preference I guess.  The reality of it, though, is just give me something to see fish and their reaction to my bait and I am just fine.  Doesn't matter what it is.  It's like splitting hairs when it comes to this crap.

"Diligence is the mother of good luck."

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All by:  Benjamin Franklin.

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Wags86 Said:
I fished outside for like 20 minutes this weekend and then decided that the inside of Ahab's ice lodge was a more comfortable alternative lol cant beat fishing in sweatpants

 

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Captain Ahab Said:
I jig at the back of the boat and use my HDS 10 any time I can when the conditions are right on soft water.  I use it just as you would for ice fishing.  That being said, I will agree with Tim on that I see it being no better than a flasher.  In fact, I actually prefer a flasher over a graph because it is slightly more immediate and when I see the flicker of fins moving up, it almost always means to brace for a strike.  Just my preference I guess.  The reality of it, though, is just give me something to see fish and their reaction to my bait and I am just fine.  Doesn't matter what it is.  It's like splitting hairs when it comes to this crap.

Yep - except the goofy a$$ flasher display that Lowrance has. I'd much rather watch real time scroll than their goofy flasher emulation thingy.

 

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hmm.... now i see what you are talking about... doesn't that "showdown" bar show the same "fish bubbling"?  if not, it should... that is akin to the amplitude bar that my lowrance has on the right.  the bottom cone you are referring to should be that red block at the bottom of your showdown vertical display... it should flicker and "bubble" just like your flasher.  if you can't see that, you either need to adjust your colorline or sensitiviy settings or throw the thing away... i couldn't fish without that information either.  that showdown bar should be just like your round flasher readout... only vertical. 

i also see that the digital readouts on the right side of the screen take up a bunch of the screen... silly.  it reduces the amount of "recording" you have access to.  and if your screen scrolls so fast that you only have a few seconds of 'recording", you should have a setting to slow down the scroll speed of the chart... if it doesn't allow you to do that and you only have a few seconds of recording, i'd be looking for something else too.

Born to hunt and fish... Forced to work!

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espringers Said:
 

in response to your response about the slush in the hole... i would just scrap the arm.  as long as you have it wo it ain't putting pressure on the connection between the unit and the ducer cord, i can't imagine it would be a problem.  my origina 68 came with an arm.  i used it one day and then threw it away... literally.  don't bother with a float either.  i'd much rather have my ducer cord tucked nice and tight agains the side of the hole with the ducer right below the ice.  keeps everything out of the way and insures its parallel to the bottom of the ice.

Yes, I will definitely resort back to that but I was just giving an honest assessement of everything that came with that Marcum.  A long time ago I got rid of the floaty and dangled my transducer cord.  Like you, I want it right at the bottom of the ice or a little above that line so you don't get the whirly tangle when you hook up with a fish.

regarding a carrying case...i ain't sure what marcum uses.  but, what is the difference between theirs and the vex carrying case or the lowrance soft cases?  my current lowrance is actually mounted on an old vex case without a soft cover.  but, as far as convenience, my old soft case on my 522 was just as convient.  i had the zip up cover unzipped all the time and tucked underneath the carrying handle.  just drop the ducer in the hole to fish... pick it up and stick it inside when moving on to the next hole.  what is slipping off of what?

The case is so "precise" it has no room for error.  Since the real base (where the head is mounted to) is polished plastic and not fastened to the protective soft case the base always wants to slide out.  And since it is so exact to get the soft case face over the head you have to adjust your head back down at a specific angle or really get mean and stretch that soft case over the head and reach the velcro.

The cary handles are goofy.  If you have the soft case face off (which you have to do in order to view the screen) their carry handle becomes compromised.  To combat that, Marchum put a slit in the back of the case that gives you access to the actual polished plastic handle.  The issue is with gloves or whatever you hardly can get an index finger through the carry handle.  When things are cold, wet gloves, icy gloves, etc and the fact the unit is rather heavy it gets cumbersome jumping from hole to hole.  I got by with it by just taking the protective case off and using the polished plastic handle.  But I shouldn't have to do that, I just wan to take the face off, turn the unit on and walk hole to hole without having to fight things.

i sure wish i was in your area... i'd try help you get it dialed in.  but, to be honest... even tho it was a graph, i didn't like my uncles marcum nearly as much as my older lowrance.  i'd take a color 300 or 500 series lowrance over a new marcum any day of the week... especially for the cost of those darn things.  i suspect i would say the same thing about the elite series lowrances... if history holds true, i would rather have one of them than a marcum.  in fact, if i didn't already have an hds unit for my boat to use on the ice, i think i would be buying an elite for the ice or a used 300 or 500 series lowrance.  my 522 had one feature my hds doesn't that i really miss. 

Marcum set out to get a digital ice fishing machine.  They did just that but I was just expecting more out of the graph capability.  Lowrance or any graph just doesn't seem to cut it to me unless can use it in conjunction with a vertical bar.  As for setup, I thought maybe I was doing something wrong but I went through all the menus, etc to get to know it before I went out on the ice.  How you see it above in my print screen is exactly how I had mine setup.  So I think she's as set up as she's going to get.


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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buckmaster81 Said:

Tim Sandstrom Said:

Horsager Said:
 We haven't even gotten to the part where Timmer is hole-hopping not to catch more fish, but, because he's looking for the roundest hole with the straightest cut through the ice column, it doesn't really matter if there's fish in that hole, as long as it's straight and perfectly round.

Heck no, I use a chipper.  I want that buggar to cut even if I drill through sand.  Unlike the dang serrated curved blades!  I do get a little upset if a hole is at a 20 degree angle because someone had to lean on their auger to drill a hole.

I run from hole to hole to catch fish.  On Sakakawea you get very limited time in the morning and evening to make that work so every little bit of time counts.  Not to mention, comfort while doing it!  As in defeinding guy's comments on why even kick the ice slush.                    Just lay the cord over and fish.

No reason you couldnt do that with the Marcum...

I know, I said that multiple times and in the very first post that started all of this.  Like I just told espringers I was just giving a complete product review on all of the "advertised" goodies.


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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espringers Said:
hmm.... now i see what you are talking about... doesn't that "showdown" bar show the same "fish bubbling"?  if not, it should... that is akin to the amplitude bar that my lowrance has on the right.  the bottom cone you are referring to should be that red block at the bottom of your showdown vertical display... it should flicker and "bubble" just like your flasher.  if you can't see that, you either need to adjust your colorline or sensitiviy settings or throw the thing away... i couldn't fish without that information either.  that showdown bar should be just like your round flasher readout... only vertical. 

i also see that the digital readouts on the right side of the screen take up a bunch of the screen... silly.  it reduces the amount of "recording" you have access to.  and if your screen scrolls so fast that you only have a few seconds of 'recording", you should have a setting to slow down the scroll speed of the chart... if it doesn't allow you to do that and you only have a few seconds of recording, i'd be looking for something else too.

It bubbles a little but nothing like a flasher does.  I think that could be an after effect of how precise it is.  I am not kidding when I say you can move your jig and inch off the bottom and see black between your jig and the bottom reading.  So when a fish shows up it just flat out shows up.

As for the battery gages, etc you can turn those completely off if you want.  So actually, I lied.  My screen shot is not exactly like that.  I turned off those gages.


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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 Tim, 

 
Here is a thread on the 6.  It says they are coming out with a fix soon.

http://www.hotspotoutdoors.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2969467/1


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This is straight from lowrance.  The service from this particular person changed my attitude completely towards lowrance customer service.

Matt, This is a tough one to fully explain but I will give it my best, keep in mind that the actual state of Liquid Crystal is much more scientific however this is a fairly good layman explanation. LC (Liquid Crystal) displays use a screen that is comprised of a series of tubular type pixels.  When power is put across the different pixels they open to allow light to pass through them creating an image.  The Liquid Crystal is heated up from the electrical charge and forced to move from one pixel to another, allowing for dark and light spots.  Because LC is actually takes on the properties of both Liquid and Crystal when the temps become low enough the LC will be slow to move, and if the display is cold enough and the backlight used by the electronic device is hot enough the screen will crack from the inside out.  I have seen the same thing happen if the pixels get too hot, and the LC is forced into a small number of pixels and they burst.  So, no they don’t freeze in a traditional sense however they are negatively affected by extreme cold temps and these affects are not much different than if the Liquid actually froze solid.   The one thing that people do not realize with LCD screens is that LC do have characteristics of any normal liquid.  This means that when hot they flow and can be manipulated easier than when cold.  Anything that is of a liquid form when cold enough will begin to freeze, and during the freezing process it will expand which is what actually cracks the screen.  I am sure we have all had a LCD calculator or older cell phone that had a LCD for the screen, and if you would press on the screen you would see what appeared to be ink below the “glass/plastic” screen.  That is the substance that will “swell” when the temps reach a cold enough point. There are many other factors to consider, any time an electronic device (actually applies to many non-electronic items also) freezes, and then is thawed later, it is common for the item to absorb some moisture inside  the unit.  Many times, when an electronic unit stops working after having been frozen it is the moisture captured inside the unit that freezes and causes damage to the unit.  I generally would never storing an electronic item in temps below the freezing point for any length of time.  If you leave it outside in the car for a night or 2 you most likely won’t have any issues; however if you store it in a location that is going to be below freezing for an extended period of time you will want to make sure to store it somewhere else. My rule of thumb is:  -4 to 32 degrees is a temp range that is ok for short term storage.  (ex. Day or 2 without temps rising above 32 degrees for more than a couple of hours.)Anything more than a couple of days I would not recommend storing the unit in temps below about 20 degrees.  Any electronic device should be brought to a comfortable room temp prior to powering the unit on. (this applies to excessive heat also) I had a GPS for my car that I left in my car 1 day while at the lake.  Here in Oklahoma we can get excessively hot outside, like 110 or so, and when I got to my car I didn’t think anything about the unit having been overheated and when I plugged it in, I fried the internal electrical circuit that controlled the display screen itself.

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meh... i can't imagine there being a problem.  your cell phone is lcd, your garmin in your truck is lcd and all of the modern day graph fish finders are lcd.  not a single one of them come with any warnings bout not storing them outside, etc... the darn things are marketed for ice fishing.  how in the heck could you market something for ice fishing that isn't meant to be stored or used in sub zero temps?  the one i am currently using is a thousand dollar machine.  if i had any reservations about it other than normal wear and tear from regular usage... like cracking the lcd display or it "slowing down" because it happens to be below zero... no way in hades i would risk it. 

Born to hunt and fish... Forced to work!

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I stored my Vex Edge always out in the cold storage for like 4 years.  Never had an issue.  My lowrance is sitting in my boat now.  Hope it is okay.  I guess I could do the right thing and pull it.  I finally took my boat batteries out!


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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Espringer,

I guess from what you said, the only benefit of using a graph is history. I can tell you what my minnow is doing on my FL 20 just like you stated. Also, with a flasher, your response time is much quicker and less blocky.

Tim,

To me, what you were hoping that graph would show you is technology not yet available in fishing sonar. I know what you mean though, and when it's available, it will be amazing.

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espringers Said:
meh... i can't imagine there being a problem.  your cell phone is lcd, your garmin in your truck is lcd and all of the modern day graph fish finders are lcd.  not a single one of them come with any warnings bout not storing them outside, etc... the darn things are marketed for ice fishing.  how in the heck could you market something for ice fishing that isn't meant to be stored or used in sub zero temps?  the one i am currently using is a thousand dollar machine.  if i had any reservations about it other than normal wear and tear from regular usage... like cracking the lcd display or it "slowing down" because it happens to be below zero... no way in hades i would risk it. 

This person works for lowrance that wrote that and knows electronics.  i have had many failed electronics from cold weather.  I will be following his advice moving forward because he deals with electronic product failures for a living.  Right now i have 3 ifinders that are out and probably due to keeping them in the pickup all the time in below zero.

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guywhofishes Said:

Captain Ahab Said:
I jig at the back of the boat and use my HDS 10 any time I can when the conditions are right on soft water.  I use it just as you would for ice fishing.  That being said, I will agree with Tim on that I see it being no better than a flasher.  In fact, I actually prefer a flasher over a graph because it is slightly more immediate and when I see the flicker of fins moving up, it almost always means to brace for a strike.  Just my preference I guess.  The reality of it, though, is just give me something to see fish and their reaction to my bait and I am just fine.  Doesn't matter what it is.  It's like splitting hairs when it comes to this crap.

Yep - except the goofy a$$ flasher display that Lowrance has. I'd much rather watch real time scroll than their goofy flasher emulation thingy.

i like the flasher on my elite but i run it in split screen most times with the zoom all the way up on the graph side

 Adn

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fisherman25 Said:
Espringer,

I guess from what you said, the only benefit of using a graph is history. I can tell you what my minnow is doing on my FL 20 just like you stated. Also, with a flasher, your response time is much quicker and less blocky.

i can't believe i still get in these discussions... but, yes... history is the main benefit.  the response time is not faster with a flasher.  they are both real time.  u just need to learn how to read the thing.  all real time data is on the right hand side of the screen.  there is no lag time with todays modern lcd units and interal processors and it certainly shouldn't be more "blocky" than a flasher display... the pixel count is ridiculous these days. 

Born to hunt and fish... Forced to work!

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Sorry, I will do some additional research when I get in front of my computer, but I can guarantee the response time of a flasher is quicker. I'll try to find some data.

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So Tim after using the lx6 would you reccomend it. I sold my lx5 to get a 6 but am now a little skeptical. From what I have read they are a sweet unit ans with a update on the way all the bugs they are having should be worked out. I was dead set on a 6 but I also have the ice ducer for my hummingbirds 79. If im not going to be impressed then what's the point. The reason I wanted a 6 was because after seeing a graph on the ice I was hooked. Something about it that I like better that the flasher but with a 6 I get them all. Graph, flasher, and vertical display. So let's hear it

 

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 I am right in the middle of deciding myself. I went to scheels and was a second away from ordering an ice 55. 

I currently do not see any benefit in the graph but to each their own. According to marcum they have the fastest graph than any other product. 

I can get past the arm thingy. Just dangle like usually did in past. I do not like carry case but can get by using personal modifications. 

I am not huge fan of the buttons. Lots of pushing to do if need to adjust. Is it always necessary?  No but it weighs on my mind. 

Gadget wise yep, marcum has it all. Pretty cool stuff. Crisp and clean but text size issue and sunlight could affect display. I don't fish much in high noon sun so not big deal. 

Good target seperaton. Responsive. 


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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 Will try to finish off thoughts...gotta run. 


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
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GREENHORN
Joined: 12/9/09

Thanks for the input. We fish the skunk area quite a bit and know what you are talking about hole hopping around. My lx5 also had the arm and I ditches that for a float because of the frozen slush issue. So I would probably do the same with the new one. I also understand once you get your screens set where you like the combinations and setting they will stay that way once powered off. Correct me if im wrong. That would keep the button pushing to a minimum. I also like the idea that you can adjust the size of the line that is your jig. Did you play around with that at all

 

Tim Sandstrom's picture
Tim Sandstrom
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GREENHORN
Joined: 7/14/03

 The target adjust didn't seem all that helpful but that was most likely due to me using the zoom feature most of the time. I am not sure if the marcum is a digital or optical zoom. Point is with the zoom I either had to have a bigger looking jig or it went almost totally away or just flickered. I was trying different combos with the sensitivity and target adjust. But I will be honest, the bite was great the last few trips do I wasn't messing with it a ton. It showed fish and right there made me stop fooling around and catch them!

But yes, it will remember your setup. Switching settings might not be all the time but gain adjustment still could be somewhat common as you move around areas with structure. 

I am gonna mess with it one more outing. I will try to tinker with it in much greater detail. I can tell ya if you do not get that ducer exactly right it isn't easy to adjust the difference with the gain knob. Seemed easier to cheat with vex sometimes. But still ducer placement is pretty important for all devices. 

Gotta run again...


 

 

Kirsch's Outdoor Products | Fargo, ND | 701-261-9017 Garmin GPS Hunting Maps
Liebel's Guide Service | Williston, ND | 701-770-6746 liebelsguideservice.com
Jig-em-Up Guide Service | Grand Forks, ND | 701-739-9198 jig-em-up-guide-service.com

 

 
Frosty....'s picture
Frosty....
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GREENHORN
Joined: 6/9/07

espringers Said:
hmm.... now i see what you are talking about... doesn't that "showdown" bar show the same "fish bubbling"?  if not, it should... that is akin to the amplitude bar that my lowrance has on the right.  the bottom cone you are referring to should be that red block at the bottom of your showdown vertical display... it should flicker and "bubble" just like your flasher.  if you can't see that, you either need to adjust your colorline or sensitiviy settings or throw the thing away... i couldn't fish without that information either.  that showdown bar should be just like your round flasher readout... only vertical. 

i also see that the digital readouts on the right side of the screen take up a bunch of the screen... silly.  it reduces the amount of "recording" you have access to.  and if your screen scrolls so fast that you only have a few seconds of 'recording", you should have a setting to slow down the scroll speed of the chart... if it doesn't allow you to do that and you only have a few seconds of recording, i'd be looking for something else too.

If I remember correctly I have 13-15secs of history on my LX7.  I personally like the feature.  Also, like you, I am not worried about the cold temps and LCD screens.  Heck, I haven't taken my garmin out of my truck this winter and it has seen temps down to  -50F and it still works fine.

 -}}}}}--------------->>>

Ice fishermen are simple creatures, they just need a hole and their pole

 

espringers's picture
espringers
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GREENHORN
Joined: 7/25/07

my garmin has never left my truck... for 7 years.  and i know very few folks who pull their fish finders from their boats every year.  if mine isn't on my boat or in my truck during ice fishing season it is sitting in the cold garage.  the thing often goes straight from my sub zero truck into a warm ice house too.  i have no reason to doubt the basic technical narrative the lowrance guy gave whoever it was above.  but, i can't help but question if he isn't a little misinformed because they market the things specifically for ice fishing and they certainly don't come with warnings about sub zero temps, etc... and i don't think the warranty i read had any mention of it either.  same with the garmins, cell phones, etc...

Born to hunt and fish... Forced to work!

iluvswnd's picture
iluvswnd
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GREENHORN
Joined: 11/9/04

 Espringers, it's a pretty safe bet that in all the electronic manuals here are min/max temps listed for storage and operation. 

Im not disagreeing with your findings as we have never taken the graph out of the boat, etc but its almost a guarantee that the device manual lists th min/max temps. 

J

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